Motorbike tours with vintage bikes are pure adventure. At the same time, they offer a welcome slowdown from the hustle of daily life. The ›risk‹ of a breakdown may seem higher compared to modern bikes—but that’s mostly an illusion. Of course, bikes over 70 or 80 years old do require a bit of evening TLC. On this tour, we rode a 1943 Indian Ex-Army Scout and a 1951 Harley Panhead. They’re mismatched in displacement and power, but honestly, who cares?
Our journey began with friends in Putte, Netherlands. We ditched the transporter and headed straight for the port of Rotterdam. The ride to the port was almost uneventful—until we nearly lost the kickstarter on the Scout. Not ideal for a bike without an electric starter at the very start of the tour! Add to that a companion still learning how to kickstart the Panhead within a reasonable timeframe, and it’s safe to say our nerves were tested. Still, we made it to the ferry just in time.
After a petrol station breakfast in Hull, England, we fixed the Scout’s issue thanks to the lads at THE SHED, a motorcycle workshop near the port. The nut securing the kickstarter had stripped its thread. With a new nut and a generous application of Loctite, the kickstarter was back in action. From then on, the Panhead’s starting process also improved—I finally got the hang of it, or at least it felt that way.
That day’s destination was Selkirk, a small town in the Scottish Borders, about 220 miles (roughly 350 km) away. Our first Scottish stop was at the famous border stones on the A68. Now the adventure could truly begin.
Selkirk is home to the renowned LOCHCARRON OF SCOTLAND weaving mill. As someone deeply interested in clothing, I couldn’t miss the opportunity to visit. The fabrics and patterns have always been a symbol of freedom to me.
We skipped Edinburgh—too much traffic—and headed instead to admire the FORTH BRIDGE. Standing at the foot of its massive pillars on the northern side, you can’t help but feel small. What the construction crews achieved by its opening in March 1890 is nothing short of extraordinary—and it’s still in use today.
Scottish campsites are always good for a laugh. When asked how many people and vehicles we were bringing, I referred to the bikes as our ›Old Ladies.‹ This led to an invoice for four people. Explaining the misunderstanding was quite amusing—the receptionists didn’t initially realize I was talking about the motorcycles. Fair enough, given the odd things customers sometimes say.
From Old Scone, we rode into the Grampian Mountains, where alpine landscapes and ski lifts dominate the higher elevations. I thought it’d be a good idea to visit BALMORAL CASTLE, but apparently, every tourist in Scotland had the same idea that day. So, we moved on.
Next stop: LOCH NESS. We camped in the hills on the northwestern side of the loch near ABRIACHAN. Evenings were spent admiring our bikes and sipping a little ›water of life.‹
Our rides took us through the glens—north, west, south, east, and back again to the loch. From Inverness, we headed toward GLEN CARRON and made a stop at EILEAN DONAN CASTLE, the postcard-perfect fortress. Naturally, all the tourists who had been at Balmoral were now here. We skipped the castle itself (too many ghosts, perhaps?) but had a great chat in the car park with a Triumph Thruxton rider named Fraser. The local accent was tricky, but it was still a fun encounter.
From there, it was just a short ride to the ISLE OF SKYE. We took the small ferry across GLENELG BAY—a single-track road through the clouds made the journey there an epic experience. The ferry operator loved our bikes but lamented that his ferry was ›only‹ 60 years old. He would’ve taken us for another loop, but the two sports car drivers sharing the ferry likely wouldn’t have appreciated the detour.
Back at the loch, we circled its shores, heading south along its eastern side. A stunning detour over a high plateau offered breathtaking views. Cyclists tackling the climb looked to be in real pain—it was long and steep. We eventually dropped back down to the loch. And yes, I saw NESSIE. No joke. She surfaced, gave a friendly ›Hello, sir,‹ and disappeared again.
Later, we turned into GLEN AFFRIC, a valley filled with lochs like LOCH AFFRIC and LOCH BEINN A’MHEADHOIN (good luck pronouncing that—buy me a beer if you can!). This area reminded me of Scandinavian landscapes—an absolutely stunning part of the world.
We moved camps to TYNDRUM, exploring GLENCOE and OBAN. Loch Leven, also known as the Valley of Tears, has a grim history of clan conflicts. The infamous massacre of the McDonalds of Glencoe still casts a shadow over the area.
Now, a word about the weather. It finally rained in Oban—just a drizzle, as the locals would say. Honestly, I was hoping for more rain to test the Moto65 suit properly, but alas, we mostly had four seasons in one day with different weather in every valley. A bit disappointing, really!
Our final day took us to GLEN ETIVE—pure cinematic Scotland. Films like Braveheart, Harry Potter, and Skyfall were shot here. The legendary one-handed, one-legged, one-eyed monster Fachan must’ve enjoyed the film crews’ antics. Even the Skyfall waterfall took the day off. No drama, but that’s fine—we still felt like 007.
The return journey to Hull was mostly uneventful, aside from an overheated battery on the Panhead. HALFORDS had a replacement, but even that one gave out near the end. Luckily, I had a backup in the saddlebags. A new regulator sorted things out back home.
Oh, and I almost forgot—the Moto65 suit held up beautifully. It’s ready for next year’s adventures, whether to the North Cape, Spain—or both!
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